Nestled within the culturally vibrant and historically rich Basque Country of northern Spain lies Donostia-San Sebastián, a coastal city long regarded as one of the most captivating destinations in the world. With its striking shoreline, San Sebastián has become synonymous with elegance, charm, and leisurely seaside living. Among its natural treasures are some of the most dazzling beaches in Europe, most notably the famous Playa de la Concha, recognized internationally for its sweeping bay of sparkling waters and crescent-shaped golden sands. Yet the city offers far more than coastal beauty: it is celebrated for an extraordinary culinary tradition that has placed it on the global map of fine dining, as well as for architectural landmarks that blend history with modern sophistication. All of these elements made it seem the perfect antidote to the bustling pace of the major metropolitan centers my husband and I had just toured, such as London and Paris. Given that San Sebastián has fewer than 200,000 residents, it promised an intimacy and tranquility that we thought would be refreshing after navigating the overwhelming scale of larger capitals. Convinced that the city would provide both relaxation and inspiration, we arranged to stay for an entire month.
However, when we arrived, reality turned out to diverge from our expectations. At first glance, everything aligned with what we had hoped: the city’s beauty unfolded effortlessly before us, and we hurried to immerse ourselves in its atmosphere. From the enchanting promenade curving along La Concha Bay to the vibrant ambiance of Old Town, every corner seemed to invite exploration. We had rented an Airbnb for 31 days, only two minutes away from the beach and its celebrated promenade. Just a short walk further, we could reach the labyrinthine cobblestone lanes of the historic Old Quarter, where centuries-old facades framed lively pintxo bars that never failed to entice passersby with aromas of Basque delicacies. With so many sights and sounds directly at our doorstep, we felt compelled to make full use of every day, embarking on long walks through the city, absorbing its texture and rhythms.
During our early days, we strolled repeatedly along the length of the promenade, pausing to admire the panoramic transition from sand and sea to the mountainous landscape that encircled the bay. We ventured into distinct neighborhoods, sometimes on foot, other times by bus, each area revealing new perspectives on the city’s character. Shopping provided its own form of discovery: in addition to visiting familiar international retailers like Zara, I delighted in uncovering small boutiques brimming with local specialties. Jars of guindilla peppers in dazzling shades of yellow-green, bottles of locally produced Spanish wines, colorful handmade jewelry, and artisanal soaps infused with sumptuous scents filled these shops, offering keepsakes that reflected both heritage and artistry. On a more personal level, we also attempted to learn basic phrases in Euskara—the ancestral Basque language unknown to most outsiders. Each time we greeted someone in Euskara, the reactions were overwhelmingly warm, reminding us that even small gestures can create a sense of connection and belonging, however fleeting.
Despite this promising start, our enthusiasm began to diminish surprisingly quickly. After just four days of compulsive exploration, we noticed a disquieting pattern: we had already consumed the bulk of experiences that originally seemed fresh and exciting. Unlike sprawling metropolises where different neighborhoods stretch endlessly into unique microcosms, San Sebastián soon revealed itself as more compact and less varied in terms of activities. While this scale can be charming for visitors seeking repose, for us it meant that within less than a week, we felt an unexpected hollowness. We began questioning whether committing to an entire month had been a misstep. Hoping to alleviate these doubts, we booked additional excursions designed to extend our range of experiences. A city bus tour promised to highlight corners we might have missed on foot, while a longer day trip to Bilbao, a more populous and industrially significant Basque city located an hour and twenty minutes away, seemed like it could re-energize our itinerary. Although these ventures provided diversions and indeed offered memorable moments—among them marveling at Jeff Koons’ monumental floral sculpture, “Puppy,” displayed grandly outside the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao—they ultimately confirmed what we feared: our curiosity about San Sebastián was not sufficient to occupy an entire month.
Another reality that affected our stay was the presence of far more tourists than we had anticipated. We had assumed that San Sebastián, being modest in scale compared to Madrid or Barcelona, might host fewer crowds, offering a more peaceful environment. In contrast, our visit in June coincided with the height of the summer season, when travelers flood into Europe’s coastal gems. As a consequence, familiar frustrations emerged. Visiting historical churches with throngs of people queuing at the doors diminished moments that might otherwise feel spiritual or contemplative. Attempts to claim a spot on the sand during rare stretches of sunny weather became akin to skirmishes for territory. Even reaching the highly touted panoramic viewpoints from Monte Igueldo through its famed funicular proved impossible, as the line of tourists snaked for what felt like hours. While we acknowledged that traveling in spring or early fall could have alleviated these issues, the timing of our trip had locked us into experiencing the city at its busiest.
Compounding our difficulties was the fact that we inadvertently positioned ourselves at odds with one of San Sebastián’s greatest global attractions: its cuisine. Renowned as one of the world’s gastronomy capitals, the city is famous for its pintxos—elaborate snacks consisting of bread topped with combinations of savory ingredients and secured with a toothpick. Bars overflow with endless variations, showcasing the creativity and indulgence of Basque flavors. Unfortunately, because my husband and I follow a mostly vegan diet, allowing only occasional seafood, our options were severely restricted. Many of the stunning creations so proudly displayed were laden with cheese, meats, or eggs. We soon found ourselves eating a repetitive rotation of similar items, most memorably tinned tuna with peppers and olive tapenade, a combination we encountered so frequently that it became almost comical. In retrospect, we realized we had failed to research thoroughly how our dietary restrictions might impact our culinary experience. Even so, not all was lost: we discovered hidden gems such as Gogoan Kafetegia, a stylish café offering plant-based milk alternatives, and Mapa Verde, a cozy restaurant where we relished comforting homemade vegan plates accompanied by surprisingly affordable local wines costing only a few euros per glass.
While our plans did not unfold as flawlessly as anticipated, the city nevertheless delivered moments worth cherishing. Walking along the illuminated shores at night, with the promenade’s lights shimmering across the bay, gave us scenes almost cinematic in their beauty. San Sebastián’s appeal is undeniable, particularly for those prioritizing rest, beach leisure, or indulgence in culinary arts that we could not fully explore. For other travelers with more flexible tastes, different seasonal timing, or simply fewer days reserved, the city would likely exceed expectations. However, for us, the reality was stark: midway through our intended stay, we already longed to leave. By the tenth day, we decided to pack our belongings and return to Paris. Despite forfeiting the remaining weeks of our prepaid Airbnb rental—a decision that cost us thousands of dollars—we felt that regaining valuable time was worth far more than any financial loss. Ultimately, our experience reinforced a crucial lesson: thorough research and thoughtful planning regarding both destination and duration are as important as the allure of the destination itself. Next time, we resolved, we will carefully calibrate the length of our visits in order to strike the right balance between savoring a city’s essence and avoiding overstaying beyond its possibilities.
Sourse: https://www.businessinsider.com/trip-to-san-sebastian-spain-disappointing-left-early-mistakes-2025-9
